Water Grill

Dallasites are hauling in fresh seafood and raw oysters from both coasts, thanks to this small upscale chain from California. The look on the inside is rather Victorian/eclectic, with an old diving helmet on display, but splashing fountains make the patio especially inviting. Wild “Eastern Sea” scallops came with perfectly satiny interiors and coppery edges, brightened with onion-rich Genovese sauce and surrounded by grilled seasonal vegetables. Grilled red treviso, a form of radicchio with an firm endive form, made a nicely bitter if slightly chewy salad. The chef won us over with a creative braised kale punched up with Greek yogurt and hazelnuts.