A survivor in an unusually subdued Sundance Square, Waters remains the city’s most fashionable choice for all manner of fish. Chef Jon Bonnell’s early New Orleans training shines in his gumbo, with firm shrimp and crawfish mingling with andouille sausage and jasmine rice built on a nuanced, dark roux. Get the expertly grilled and juicy halibut, resting on a bed of sweet potato gnocchi, with a toasted macadamia pesto and a lemon-basil cream sauce.