Sundance Square’s premier seafood house reflects chef Jon Bonnell’s passion for classic cuisine tempered with contemporary style. We like the high-top tables in the bustling bar, with modern oyster shell decor to keep us company. Hush puppies packed with roasted corn and cheddar, accompanied by sliced of fried jalapeño, needed no enhancements, but the side of honey-tinged butter was a lush touch. The evening’s special of shrimp étouffée was the star, thanks to a half-dozen jumbo crustaceans bearing the right balance of spice and depth. The jumbo lump crab and avocado salad disappointed, though, with very little of either headliner atop a bed of arugula, and the gumbo boasted plenty of crawfish, shrimp, and andouille but lacked nuance in the roux.
City: Fort Worth