Pivoting from its Rosedale Kitchen concept, the Chameleon restaurant group opened the second location of its popular downtown dumpling spot Wu Chow in the same space. The North Central Austin spot tries for moody and dark with a mahjong-tile wall, despite plateglass windows. As with the downtown kitchen, the dumpling game is strong; delicate yellow wrappers filled with chicken whetted our appetites. Sichuan peppercorns punctuated a bowl of savory, crispy chicken bites, and the long cigar-shaped egg rolls are just as tasty. Coconut curry beef hot pot and crispy fried noodles—both from the starter menu—were fine but not memorable. However, velvety stir-fried vegetables were unexpectedly delicious. Popular at its Sunday dim sum brunch are inventive cocktails, including a lychee martini.
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Hip dumpling spot gets a North Central Austin outpost.