Expect crowds and noise at this sleek, handsome spot run by Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught. The setting of soft taupe, blond wood, and cream colors makes for a calm backdrop for Mexican art and a see-and-be-seen crowd. Our group recently tried juicy wood-roasted oysters, rich with mole, cheese, and bread crumbs. Equally fine was the memela, a corn masa pancake topped with roasted pork rib, refritos, crema, queso fresco, and tomatillo avocado sauce, a lovely combination of complex tastes and textures. Ditto the tender beef tongue tacos in morita pepper sauce and the roasted octopus on a masa pancake with pepper adobo and pumpkin seeds. Less successful was a lamb shank with mole de olla and mixed vegetables, a dish crying out for seasoning. Our favorite dessert? A trio of mint, blackberry, and chocolate sorbets. We experienced some service glitches, including a long wait to be seated because the host went missing.