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Dining Guide

Xochi

Queso del rancho.
Photograph by Jody Horton

Expect crowds and noise at this sleek, handsome spot run by Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught. The setting of soft taupe, blond wood, and cream colors makes for a calm backdrop for Mexican art and a see-and-be-seen crowd. Our group recently tried juicy wood-roasted oysters, rich with mole, cheese, and bread crumbs. Equally fine was the memela, a corn masa pancake topped with roasted pork rib, refritos, crema, queso fresco, and tomatillo avocado sauce, a lovely combination of complex tastes and textures. Ditto the tender beef tongue tacos in morita pepper sauce and the roasted octopus on a masa pancake with pepper adobo and pumpkin seeds. Less successful was a lamb shank with mole de olla and mixed vegetables, a dish crying out for seasoning. Our favorite dessert? A trio of mint, blackberry, and chocolate sorbets. We experienced some service glitches, including a long wait to be seated because the host went missing.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 1777 Walker, Houston, TX, 77010

Hours: L Mon–Fri. D 7 days. B Sat & Sun.

Phone: 713-400-3330

Website: www.xochihouston.com/

Last updated: December 1, 2019