In May Hugo Ortega won the James Beard award for best chef in the Southwest, an honor long overdue! We’re fans of his other places, Caracol and Hugo’s, but we think Xo- chi, the most personal of the three, has taken his empire to a new level. There was not one flaw in the food or the service recently. We sat at the corner of the bar with a view of the oak trees of Discovery Green through the long windows, all the while learning of things Oaxacan from our waiter, Carlos. We opened with wood-fired oysters in mole amarillo and cachetes de res in mole pasilla. (All the moles here are deeply flavored, and many are quite un- expected.) A filet of cobia with a black bean cake in a perfectly spiced chorizo broth rounded out the meal, as did a tender pork shank braised with Istmeño peppers and roasted with pineapple.