Sating the apparent pent-up demand for contemporary Peruvian food, the El Chile folks have repurposed the former El Sapo into a cheery cebichería. The varieties are copious, a few dressed with the namesake yuyo (“seaweed”). A mixed-seafood version we sampled had the octopus, shrimp, and fish lined up conga style; the sprightly lime juice danced on our tongue, and a few corn nuts on top added to the party. The pastel de choclo—corn cake layered over spicy ground beef—was reminiscent of the tamale pie of our youth. The crispy pork (despite none of the promised crackling) was excellent, tender and brightened with pickled red onions and peppers, and a dazzling dish of grilled vegetables radiated like a sun with a portobello mushroom cap at the center.