The bird on your Thanksgiving table this year should be pheasant—specifically, the savory roast pheasant with garlicky sausage jambalaya dressing from Cheryl and Bill Jamison’s new cookbook, Texas Home Cooking (Harvard Common Press). When Thanksgiving is over, try other recipes—both traditional and modern—from the Jamisons’ eminently readable text, which has
Revenge of the bird: A pleasant pheasant from the Rough Creek Lodge near Glen Rose.
Evan Daily wants to improve the environment; so when he opened Evan’s at 3939 Montrose in Houston the week of Earth Day 1990, he took steps beyond using recycled-paper menus and business cards. At Evan’s, organic produce and chemical-free meats are the basis of the meal, not just food for
“We thought about closing Hilltop after we bought it, but we just about had a mutiny on our hands,” says James D. Smith, Jr. He was speaking of the legendary country eating place that Madalene Hill opened 38 years ago in Cleveland, just a few miles from its present incarnation
The ingredients are earthy but the effect is divine in chef Mark Morrow’s rustic anitra arrosto, or roast duck. Morrow’s recipes from Mi Piaci in Dallas (14854 Montfort) do a turn on traditional Italian fare: fresh fowl brushed with honey and balsamic vinegar and slow-cooked creamy polenta, made from simple
When Bruce Pike was 16, he was doing chateaubriand and baked Alaska at the University Club in San Antonio. Now at 31—having migrated through some of that city’s fancier restaurants (including La Buca and Biga)—he is doing his own thing at Luna Notte (6402 N. New Braunfels). “I’m going for
Think fig: The chef at Austin’s Vespaio does, and his crispy duck is delicious.
A savory couscous with a long Shelf life.
Underscoring the “comfort” in comfort food, the Roaring Fork in Dallas (14866 Montfort) has brought classic roasted chicken into the nineties with a dish that’s a breeze to fix and soul-satisfying to eat. Chef Lance Youngs generously bastes the fowl with a lemon-and-honey glaze brightened by thyme and chives. The
Autumn along San Antonio’s Paseo del Rio is truly a season of change—especially at the Zuni Grill (511 River Walk), where chef David James’s revamped menu creates a casual and innovative bill of fare with an intentional nod to the Southwest. But don’t expect a run-of-the-mill chile relleno at Zuni.
Roasted poblanos, toasted pumpkin seeds, tomatillos: At Houston’s Taco Milagro, you’ll want to eat the whole enchilada.
Treebeards does lunch. Not the hasty post-modern “Let’s do lunch” but the leisurely traditional “Will you join me for lunch?” Inside the flagship Market Square location (315 Travis) in Houston, ceiling fans waft a breeze across baskets of fresh produce while customers queue up to peruse the possibilities: shrimp étouffée,
Grains, greens, and wild game form a partnership in this power lunch from Dakota’s (600 N. Akard), an urban enclave deep in the heart of downtown Dallas. Dakota’s bills itself as a new American grill, its menu running the gamut from homey to nouvelle.Executive chef Jim Severson is particularly fond
"Deer diary, tonight I had a wonderful venison stew from Hudson's on the Bend outside Austin . . . "
San Antonio’s Las Canarias has a dish that will be deer to your heart.
Venison is the name of the game in this stylish take on a Texas classic from Hunter’s Moon in Fredericksburg. Partners and chefs Cynthia Castleberry and Alan Hirsch embellish the lean meat with a lush demiglace-based sauce incorporating cranberries, pistachios, ginger, and sherry. The final kick comes from the judicious
Sweetbreads are a rarity at most restaurants, but executive chef Raymond Tatum has made the rich organ meat his signature dish at Austin’s talked-about 612 West (612 W. Sixth). “People tell me that I make the best sweetbreads,” Tatum says. “And personally I really like them. It’s only human instinct
Don’t judge Cuisine Actuelle by its pictures. The glamorous cookbook, written by Victor Gielisse, the chef at Dallas restaurant Actuelle (the Crescent, 500 Crescent Court), might well daunt the quotidian cook. But, in fact, most of its 150 recipes are as easy as pie. Rich, heavy sauces are conspicuous by
Eat to the beat: Rosemary-marinated pork from Houston caterer and string bass player Joe Abuso.
One brother greets, the other cooks. Between them, Peter and Patrick Tarantino have created one of Dallas’ artier dining venues. At Tarantino’s (3611 Parry), chef Pat presides over a menu that does not shrink from extremes. “I introduce deliberate contradictions into my food,” he proclaims, “but my goal is to
There are two ways to use Stop and Smell the Rosemary: Recipes and Traditions to Remember, the spectacular new offering from the Junior League of Houston. First, you can use the cookbook part to prepare any of the five hundred excellent recipes. Second, you can concentrate on the menu and
Pig out on pork tenderloin at Mark’s in Houston.
Houston’s restaurateur to the stars, Tony Vallone, goes full boar.
“Mixing so many flavors, you wouldn’t think the dish would turn out,” says Ethel Fisher, the executive chef and co-owner of Houston’s Post Oak Grill. But it does, and more is more in this unlikely pairing of lamb and not-so-subtle tomatillo sauce.Fisher spent twenty years traveling throughout Europe and South
March is the month for lamb—especially the delectable variety served at Monte Carlo in the Grand Kempinski Hotel Dallas. With a solarium, pale peach walls, and trees and potted palms scattered throughout, this light and airy place captures the ambience of restaurants in Italy and the South of France. The
From Francesca’s at the Westin La Cantera Resort in San Antonio.
Opposites attract in this fetching dish from Houston’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel. A dusting of cajun seasoning and split-second blackening forthrightly support the lamb’s delicate flavor, and an opulent creamy sauce emboldened with jalapeños positions this creation by executive sous-chef Kevin Dimond squarely in the Southwest.Dimond’s mix-and-match technique has found a champion
Why does the grilled lamb loin at Austin’s Bitter End taste so good? Harissa explains it all.
For fans of lamb and rabbit, this dish from Houston’s Tasca is a real meat and greet.
Food fads have their ups and downs. Today’s trend is tall, as chefs vie to see who can construct the most architectonic appetizers and elevated entrées. Houston’s Backstreet Cafe (1103 S. Shepherd) has its own entry in the culinary sweepstakes: the aptly named Meatloaf Tower. In designing the dish, chefs
Jailhouse Chili is a gastronomic pleasure for the Kinkster—and the rest of us.
Stick to the ribs at Austin's La Traviata.
Rich Malley, Sito Negron, and Lucian Read.
“In another lifetime, I used to make this dish with a classic French Madeira sauce and specialty beef,” says Michael Thomson, the owner of Michaels (3413 West Seventh) in Fort Worth, “but it just didn’t seem indigenous.” So he switched to regular choice tenderloin, substituted bourbon (“our only native American
Paella—Spain’s saffron-hued rice and seafood dish—comes in infinite, subtle variations. Restaurant co-owner Veronica Prida keeps the recipe light for nineties tastes, concentrating on seafood and chicken and omitting the usual sausage. She suggests preparing the rice and chicken ahead of time; the shrimp, mussels, clams, and scallops can be quick-cooked
The lavender-dusted quail at Laurels in Dallas deserves, er, laurels.
Sweet designs for Christmas cookies from Penny's Pastries of Austin.
Misty Keasler, Van Ditthavong, and Lou Brooks.
Photo illustration by Image Foundation. Tower photograph by Wyatt McSpadden.
Our September cover was a hit on Facebook, where it received hundreds of shares and likes—and generated a raging debate between those who thought the photo was adorable and those who felt that the children should have been more covered up. “First of all, can they put some clothes on them?”
Composite photograph by Randal Ford. Retouching by Gigantic Squid. Styling by Bonnie Markel.