Chef

BBQ |
October 4, 2013

Barbecue on the Big Screen

There’s a scene toward the end of Smokey and the Bandit where a truck driver has just purposely torn the door off of Buford T. Justice’s already roof-less car with the bumper of his big rig. Sheriff Justice goes off on a tirade directed at the disappearing rig that ends

Recipes |
January 20, 2013

Dean Fearing, Mansion On Turtle Creek, Dallas

“People are fascinated with intricate, exotic preparations, but they love comfort food. What we’re doing is giving homey, Texas food a kick and serving it in our Mansion style.”My dad was an innkeeper, which is how I got into cooking. He was with the parent company of Holiday Inn, and

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

Chef’s On The Rise

—David GarridoBefore he became a chef, David Garrido very nearly disappeared into a different profession—a scary thought. He was on a career path in hotel management at the Hilton Hotel University in Houston eleven years ago when friends introduced him to French cooking. From the first minute in the kitchen,

Recipes |
January 20, 2013

Robert Del Grande, Cafe Annie, Houston.

“In the past few years I have tried to simplify what we do and not trump it up too much. I’ve never strained the sauces—I leave bits of chile in there to give a more rustic look.”Food seems magical to me. The idea that you can take flour, eggs, milk,

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Dean Fearing, the guitar- strumming executive chef at Dallas’ swanky Mansion on Turtle Creek, hits all the right notes when he’s in the kitchen. The Eastern Kentucky native and graduate of New York’s Culinary Institute came to Texas in 1979 to explore new frontiers in cooking and ended up pioneering

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Some like it hot; Texans like it hotter. That’s why Carl Walker, the chef at Brennan’s in Houston (3300 Smith), branded his barbecued shrimp with black pepper and poblano chiles. Double-daring the Southwest palate, he paired the shrimp with his spicy version of a down-home favorite. “I wanted to make

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Chef Oscar Mejia’s splashy tropical creations give a summer feel year-round to the menu at the Merchant Prince in Galveston. Located just off the soaring lobby of the beautifully restored 1879 Tremont House hotel (2300 Ship’s Mechanic Row), the intimate restaurant showcases Mejia’s idiosyncratic blend of Caribbean and Southwestern culinary

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

In 1980, when Armando Miranda took his first job in America as a line cook, he barely knew a muffin from a mousse. That has changed. In his peregrinations through prominent Houston restaurants, including the River Cafe, he taught himself to cook. Even today he’s a free spirit. “I don’t

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Spinning in its own distinctive orbit, Austin’s Mars has created a stylishly multicultural menu, with Middle Eastern, Pacific Rim, and Mediterranean cooking styles all getting their due. This grilled salmon in a velvety sauce punched up with Japanese horseradish demonstrates how the small, trendy restaurant makes culinary worlds collide. Owner

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

October in Texas doesn’t always mean cool weather, but it does mean the beginning of quail season. At Anthony’s in Houston, chef Bruce McMillian stuffs the small succulent birds with seasoned wild rice and couscous, roasts them to a turn, and finishes them with a garnet-hued blackberry sauce. Hunters may

Recipes |
January 20, 2013

Stephan Pyles, Star Canyon, Dallas

“When people ask what we served in my family’s cafe, I say ‘tacos, enchiladas, and tamales.’ When they ask what I serve today, I say ‘tacos, enchiladas, and tamales.’”I started out busing tables at my family’s restaurant, the Big Spring Truck-Stop Cafe. My first memories are of Tammy Wynette on

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Grains, greens, and wild game form a partnership in this power lunch from Dakota’s (600 N. Akard), an urban enclave deep in the heart of downtown Dallas. Dakota’s bills itself as a new American grill, its menu running the gamut from homey to nouvelle.Executive chef Jim Severson is particularly fond

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Sweetbreads are a rarity at most restaurants, but executive chef Raymond Tatum has made the rich organ meat his signature dish at Austin’s talked-about 612 West (612 W. Sixth). “People tell me that I make the best sweetbreads,” Tatum says. “And personally I really like them. It’s only human instinct

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Don’t judge Cuisine Actuelle by its pictures. The glamorous cookbook, written by Victor Gielisse, the chef at Dallas restaurant Actuelle (the Crescent, 500 Crescent Court), might well daunt the quotidian cook. But, in fact, most of its 150 recipes are as easy as pie. Rich, heavy sauces are conspicuous by

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

One brother greets, the other cooks. Between them, Peter and Patrick Tarantino have created one of Dallas’ artier dining venues. At Tarantino’s (3611 Parry), chef Pat presides over a menu that does not shrink from extremes. “I introduce deliberate contradictions into my food,” he proclaims, “but my goal is to

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

“Mixing so many flavors, you wouldn’t think the dish would turn out,” says Ethel Fisher, the executive chef and co-owner of Houston’s Post Oak Grill. But it does, and more is more in this unlikely pairing of lamb and not-so-subtle tomatillo sauce.Fisher spent twenty years traveling throughout Europe and South

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

State Fare

Food fads have their ups and downs. Today’s trend is tall, as chefs vie to see who can construct the most architectonic appetizers and elevated entrées. Houston’s Backstreet Cafe (1103 S. Shepherd) has its own entry in the culinary sweepstakes: the aptly named Meatloaf Tower. In designing the dish, chefs

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

Great Bowls Of Fire!

Hot like summer, as refreshing as a breaking wave, standard Mexican salsas are taking on new guises. Now they’re as likely to be a topping for grilled fish as a dip for chips.

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

Victor Victorious

Dutch-born Victor Gielisse experiments with a world of culinary influences in his Dallas restaurant, mixing in everything from Cajun and Italian classics to lessons learned at moeder’s knee.

Food & Drink |
January 20, 2013

The Calypso Kitchen

Like the climate it comes from, Jamaican food is hot, bright, and unforgettable. Four Seasons chef Robert McGrath cooks to a Tex-reggae beat in an electrifying summer menu.

Food & Drink |
July 31, 1997

Sea You Really Soon

Superchef Stephan Pyles, the culinary hand behind Dallas’ Star Canyon, is opening a new restaurant this fall: AquaKnox. The name refers to the street on which the restaurant is located, Knox, and the menu’s featured ingredient, which comes from the water. “It’s a fish restaurant,” he says simply. Pyles plans