The Houston mainstay, which opened in 1946, is deservedly famous for what comes out of the fryer. But the barbecue is good, too.
These days, a good one is rarer than hen’s teeth—but a whole lot tastier.
Lisa Fain, who just published her second cookbook, "The Homesick Texan's Family Table: Lone Star Cooking from My Kitchen to Yours," on her deep Texas roots, how easy it is to make delicious beans and homemade flour tortillas, and chile pepper injuries.
How a lowly cut of beef—breaded, spiced, and fried to order—was transformed into a vessel for the modern food system.
The heritage, splendor, and proper preparation of the ten dishes every Texan should be able to cook from scratch, from smoked brisket and migas to fried catfish and bacon-wrapped dove. Skillet and shotgun not included.
The great equalizer.