Lockhart Smokehouse

BBQ Joint Reviews |
June 1, 2017

Lockhart Smokehouse (Top 50)

It’s all in the family here. Co-founder Jill Grobowsky Bergus’s grandfather was Edgar Schmidt, the man who made Kreuz Market famous. That’s why three of the Lockhart joint’s specialties show up here: two great sausages and the cut known as shoulder clod. If you order actual brisket, you may find…

BBQ |
February 8, 2017

Texas Rangers Announce a BBQ Signing

On opening day of the 2018 Texas Rangers season, you’ll be able to enjoy a Kreuz Market sausage before the game. Texas Live!, a new dining and entertainment development is coming to Arlington. Situated between Globe Life Park and AT&T Stadium, the $250 million project will house the third location…

BBQ |
May 26, 2015

BBQ Anatomy 101: Beef Plate

Before brisket dominated Texas barbecue, meat markets served a vast variety of smoked beef cuts. The old-school meat markets of Central Texas would smoke anything left in the case too long, most often cuts from the forequarter, like shoulder clod or beef chuck. In the Dallas area during the forties and…

BBQ |
June 25, 2014

Interview: Will Fleischman of Lockhart Smokehouse

Pitmaster: Lockhart Smokehouse, Plano; Opened 2014 Age: 42 Smoker: Indirect Heat Wood-Fired Pit Wood: Oak Will Fleischman has tattoos and steel hoops in his ears, but his most distinguishing feature is the beard. He’s hard to miss when behind the counter slicing, but…

BBQ |
March 28, 2014

Barbecue Sequels

If 2013 was the year of the new barbecue joint, 2014 will be the year of barbecue expansion. Some legendary Texas barbecue stalwarts who for decades were happy to be one-offs are looking to write their sequels. Southside Market (1882), in Elgin,…

BBQ |
October 25, 2013

Everybody Line Up

“Line are overrated.” This is the conclusion of economist Tyler Cowen in a recent article where he shared some of his principles for finding good restaurants. For Cowen, standing in line is a conformist activity, and the presence of a line is a not a good indicator of the…

BBQ |
August 14, 2013

Interview: Mr. Bewley of A. N. Bewley Fabricators

Photo by Jeff Bergus This is an extended version of an interview with Mr. Bewley that ran in the New York Times on August 4th. I visited with Mr. Bewley in his house along with his daughter Rhonda and her husband Larry Lewis who now runs…

BBQ |
July 22, 2013

Covered in BBQ: Parade’s Homage to Texas Monthly

“Great barbecue clearly makes creative teams think alike.” Thus begins the explanation of Parade‘s food editor on why yesterday’s cover had a curious resemblance to Texas Monthly’s June cover. The Texas Monthly team worked with Franklin Barbecue to style a tray of smoked meats fitting for…

BBQ Joint Reviews |
May 14, 2013

Lockhart Smokehouse

The closest some Dallasites will get to a Central Texas barbecue experience could well be ordering meat by the pound at Lockhart Smokehouse. The similarity to Kreuz Market, in Lockhart, isn’t an accident. Co-owner Jill Bergus is part of the Schmidt family, who run Kreuz Market, and she and her…

BBQ Joint Reviews |
March 26, 2011

Lockhart Smokehouse

It’s good people, and it’s $15-per-pound good too. Three visits over the last three weeks have confirmed it. Brisket has morphed from very good to nearly perfect over those past three visits since my last review. The sausage just keeps getting better too, although it’s not quite to…