Houston’s PJ and Benchalak Srimart Stoops tell you everything you need to know, from catching to cooking.
Three Texas cities—and their respective tastes—appeared in the review service’s “word clouds.”
Oyster shells crackled under the car tires as I pulled into Gilhooley’s in San Leon. The parking lot is paved with them, and a pile taller than me rose like a dune at one end of the parking lot. A storm was rolling into the small town on the Gulf
A taste of our coast at its most satisfyingly simple.
They’re not actually barbecued, but one bite and you’ll forgive that.
Fish tacos, the way Houston chef Hugo Ortega makes them.
Bryan Caswell, the chef-owner of Reef, in Houston, has your backyard summer picnic all figured out.
It’s time for grillin’ and chillin’—and we know just where to buy fresh seafood and have the perfect picnic on the sand.
1 1/2 cups kosher salt 2 1/2 cups sugar 1/2 cup cracked black peppercorns 4- to 5-pound salmon, deboned and fileted by butcher 1 bunch fresh rosemary 1 bunch fresh sage 1 cup Irish whiskey Walnut oil, as neededMix salt, sugar, and pepper together. Place half of salmon skin- side
Tacos go uptown in the hands of Dean Fearing. All it takes is a little lobster, jalapeño-spiked cheese, fresh spinach, and Fearing’s snappy yellow-tomato salsa. This new, beautifully photographed compendium by Arlene Feltman-Sailhac focuses on nine masters of Southwestern cuisine. Other Texas chefs spotlighted are Robert Del Grande of Houston’s
Recipe from Dean Fearing, Mansion on Turtle Creek, Dallas.Yellow-Tomato Salsa1 pound yellow tomatoes or yellow cherry tomatoes, chopped 1 large shallot, minced 1 large clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons finely minced cilantro 1 tablespoon champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar 2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced 2 teaspoons fresh lime
Jeffrey’s, 1204 West Lynn, Austin
1 cup canola oil 8 corn tortillas 8 3-ounce fresh fish filets (redfish, snapper, or flounder) Salt and pepper to taste 4 tablespoons clarified butter or canola oil 1 1/2 cups chicken stock Juice of 1 1/2 lemons 2 sticks salted butter, cut in inch-size chunks Chipotle purée (see recipe,
Grilled Swordfish1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon coarse salt 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon Caribbean jerk seasoning (sold in jars) 1 shallot, chopped fine 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 4 5-ounce swordfish steaksMix ingredients and marinate fish for 1 hour.
How I learned what to do with the one that didn’t get away.
From Cooking: “I, Piscivore” by Gary Cartwright, in the September 1987 issue of Texas Monthly.1 large egg2 tablespoons mayonnaise, crème fraîche, or sour cream2 teaspoons Dijon mustard or the hotter Louisiana Creole mustardPinch of cayenne pepper1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepperPinch of salt1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce1 pound
From Clarksville, 1205 N. Lamar, Austin
2 tablespoons dende oil (red palm oil, available at Latin American or African markets) 2 teaspoons minced ginger 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 large onion, diced 1 cup concentrated chicken stock 4 tablespoons lime juice 2 – 3 serranos, minced 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped 1 cup
At Joey’s (4217 Oak Lawn) in Dallas, the concept of cheesecake has undergone a paradigm shift: Restaurateur Joey Vallone’s version is (1) not sweet and (2) not a dessert. To create this savory variation on a theme, chef Michael Wahl blends cream cheese with mascarpone, then folds in jumbo shrimp
Cheesecake1/2 pound cooked Maine lobster 1/2 pound lump crabmeat 1/2 pound cooked jumbo shrimp 1 pound mascarpone cheese 2 pounds cream cheese 5 eggs 1 1/4 cups flour 1/2 bunch scallions, diced Kosher salt and white pepper to tastePreheat oven to 250 degrees.Cut cream cheese into smallish chunks. Allow both
Think casual entertaining, and you think “grill.” This dish, from the New Southwestern bistro Third Coast Rotisserie and Grill in Houston, propels tradition up a notch.The shrimp and scallop skewers, a creation of executive chef Gary Tottis, take one of Texas’ great natural resources— seafood—and give it a distinctive Mexican
Shrimp and Scallop Skewers16 jumbo shrimp 16 large sea scallops 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to tasteDevein and butterfly shrimp, leaving head and tail on. Wrap each shrimp around a scallop, 4 pairs to a skewer. Coat with oil, season, and grill 8 to 10 minutes.Avocado
3 cups long-grain rice (preferably basmati) 1 large onion 1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled 6 garlic cloves 5 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large tomato, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds Scant 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 3/4 teaspoon each of cumin powder, ground coriander, and Indian red chile powder (or cayenne pepper)
In 1980, when Armando Miranda took his first job in America as a line cook, he barely knew a muffin from a mousse. That has changed. In his peregrinations through prominent Houston restaurants, including the River Cafe, he taught himself to cook. Even today he’s a free spirit. “I don’t
3 tablespoons fresh grated ginger 8 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1/2 cup peanut oil 1/8 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup fresh lime juice 3 tablespoons honey 3 tablespoons sesame seed oil 1 egg 2 pounds fresh sea scallops 6 tablespoons each black and white sesame seeds (black sesame seeds
For more than a year, Houston’s cafe society has been holding its breath in anticipation of the scheduled September reopening of Tony’s (1801 Post Oak Boulevard). Not only has the interior been lavishly remodeled to suggest a restaurant on the Italian Riviera, but owner Tony Vallone and chef Mark Cox
Recipe from Tony’s, Houston.Lentils1 cup green lentils cheesecloth, 6 inches square 12 parsley stems 1 bay leaf 1 sprig thyme 2 whole cloves salt to taste 4 cups chicken stockRinse lentils, removing pebbles. Cover with water and simmer 5 minutes. Meanwhile, make a cheesecloth bag to wrap up next 4
Recipe from Sipango, 4513 Travis, Dallas12 eggs, whites only 2 tablespoons fresh herb mix (basil, oregano, and tarragon,) finely chopped 2 tablespoons light vegetable oil 4 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced (1-inch squares) 4 ounces smoked salmon, thinly cut into 4 2-ounce slices, for garnish 1 bunch fresh chives, finely
From Chef Hervé Glin, Cité Grill, Houston
Sun-Dried-Tomato Pesto1 1⁄4 cup sun-dried tomatoes (use the type sold in oil) 1⁄3 cup pine nuts 8 fresh basil leaves 1–2 anchovy filets (optional) 1 pinch cayenne pepper 3 large garlic cloves, peeled 1 cup extra-virgin olive oilDrain oil from tomatoes and reserve for risotto. Smoke 1⁄2 cup tomatoes over
Will you enjoy the smoke-roasted shrimp at Houston’s Moose Cafe? You can plank on it.
Anaqua Grill, San Antonio
2 quarts oil 12 to 16 Gulf shrimp, peeled, with tails 1 1/2 cups Masa Harina 3/4 cup flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 2 eggs 8 ounces Shiner Bock beer Salt, white pepper, and cumin to taste Green pumpkin-seed salsa (recipe below) Orange-jicama salad (recipe below)Heat oil to 350 degrees
L’Etoile, San Antonio
4 seven-ounce lemon sole filets 5 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2 cup bread crumbs Vegetable oil 3 small shallots, finely chopped 1 cup dry champagne 1/2 cup fish stock (see recipe, below) 1/4 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/4 cup champagne grapes (or quartered red grapes)Preheat oven to 375
From Austin’s new Coyote Cafe (612 W. Sixth) comes the classiest club sandwich you’llever eat, and quite possibly the best. Offered as an occasional special at the Texas spin-off of Santa Fe’s original Coyote Cafe, the sandwich makes some key substitutions: Chile-seasoned grilled swordfish stands in for boring old turkey,
Coyote Cafe, 612 W. Sixth Street, Austin.Sandwiches4 four- to six-ounce swordfish filets 8 slices applewood-smoked bacon 8 to 12 thick slices brioche or other sweetish egg bread 1/4 pound arugula Season fish with chile rub (see below) and grill to desired doneness. Meanwhile, fry bacon, drain well, and keep warm.
Grilled Pompano in Beurre Rouge With Sea Scallops and Crayfish3 shallots, chopped fine 1/2 pound softened butter plus 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup each of red and white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup heavy cream Salt and white pepper, to taste 1/2 to 3/4 pound precooked crayfish tail
Soy-Wasabi Sauce5 tablespoons wasabi powder (available at Asian markets) 3 – 4 tablespoons water 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon sake (available at liquor stores or Asian markets)Stir together wasabi powder and just enough
Roasted-Garlic Custard1 tablespoon olive oil 6 large garlic cloves, peeled 2 cups heavy cream 4 egg yolks 1 whole eggPreheat oven to 300 degrees. Heat olive oil in small roasting pan over medium flame. Add garlic and bake 15 minutes, or until garlic turns golden brown. In saucepan, bring garlic
1 pound well-rinsed fish bones (preferably a mixture of sole and snapper) 1 onion, sliced 8 parsley sprigs 1 celery stalk, chopped into 5 or 6 pieces 1 leek, chopped 1 teaspoon cracked pepper 2 bay leaves 1 or 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs basil (optional) 2 quarts cold
Crab Cakes2 cups diced Roma tomatoes 1/4 cup each of minced shallots and garlic 1 cup diced onion 2 tablespoons thinly sliced serrano chiles 2 tablespoons each of sugar and lime juice 1/4 pound fresh scallops, muscle removed Salt and white pepper, to taste 1 1/4 cups chopped cilantro 2
1/3 cup boursin cheese 1/2 cup softened goat cheese 8 slices smoked salmon 8 fresh basil leaves 4 sheets filo dough, at room temperature 2 tablespoons clarified butter 1/3 cup bread crumbsPreheat oven to 450 degrees. Mix cheeses together. Place salmon slices on waxed paper, then top each slice with
12 well-cleaned oysters with deep shells Cayenne pepper to taste 2 hard-boiled egg yolks 2 raw egg yolks 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon melted butter Salt to taste 2 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs 12 sprigs fresh thymePreheat oven to 350 degrees. Place one oyster in each shell and
8 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 3 ounces uncooked chicken breast, cut into chunks 1/4 small head each of red and green cabbage, chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint leaves 2 tablespoons chopped bean sprouts 3 garlic gloves, chopped Green tops of 2 green onions, chopped
3 pounds fresh Pacific whitefish, snapper, or speckled trout 6 limes 3 to 4 tomatoes, chopped 3 to 5 jalapeños, seeded and chopped 1 larger onion, chopped 1/4 to 1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and black pepper, to tasteCut fish into 1/2-inch
1 quart oysters, drained 2 cups Italian bread crumbs (Progresso) 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons chopped parsley Juice of 2 lemons 3/4 cup olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 1/2 to 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper Salt, to tastePut oysters in baking dish. Mix remaining ingredients together. Top
Up for crab.
Recipe from Quick Cuisine: Shellfish Intentions.