Using their grandmother’s recipe—and a ranking system—the Ruiz women have gathered since 1972 to make tamales and strengthen ties.
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The Party As at most holiday functions, there’s no escaping your kin at a tamalada, or tamale-making party. For generations, Latinos have gathered at Christmastime to cook, assemble, and eat the age-old dish (tamales date back to pre-Columbian times). “A tamalada is a multifamily, multigenerational event,” says Sylvia Cásares, who…