Austin isn’t lacking in Mexican food. But Suerte, a restaurant from owner Sam Hellman-Mass and chef Fermín Núñez, is different: It’s all about the masa. The corn dough makes its way into dishes like molotes, small, torpedo-shaped snacks made of masa and a smidgen of chorizo; and aguachile, a crudo of royal red prawns banked by avocado slices and half-submerged in a substantial broth of cascabel chile, tomato, and lime juice. “You can do so much with it. You can make tortillas, tamales, pupusas, tostadas, huaraches, sopes, tlacoyos, tetelas, tlayudas, gorditas . . .” says Hellman-Mass. “Masa is nothing less than the backbone of Mexican cuisine.” Whatever you order, don’t forget the mighty masa taco, deconstructed at Suerte so that you can eat confit brisket or pork belly carnitas on their own—or wrapped into tender, hot, delectably-seared-from-the-comal corn tortillas. We recommend the latter: As Patricia Sharpe, food editor at Texas Monthly, says, “tacos are just more fun.”
Food & Drink
Pat’s Pick: Suerte in Austin Is All About the Masa
Food & Drink
- All Videos
- Small Town Smokers
- On the Road with Daniel Vaughn
- TM BBQ Club
Recipes, recommendations, and reviews of Texas restaurants, flavors, and libations.
On the Taco Trail: Cuantos Tacos in Austin Boasts “Mexico City-Style Street Tacos”
By José R. Ralat
José R. Ralat
José R. Ralat is Texas Monthly’s taco editor, writing about tacos and Mexican food.
Behind the Scenes at Goldee’s, the Number One Barbecue Joint in Texas
By Daniel Vaughn
Daniel Vaughn is the country’s first barbecue editor, and he has eaten more barbecue than you have.