New + Noteworthy
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Aptly named, Up is situated atop Highland Village’s tony stores. A wall of windows, ample use of wood, and tall booths (a little snug) make for an elegant, airy space. On a recent visit, only a lukewarm tuna filet failed to impress us. But we all raved over the classic and rich osso buco and the lobster ravioli in cream sauce. And we equally enjoyed sautéed chicken breast and leg with mustard sauce and a side of green beans with sun-dried tomato, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Bar. 3995 Westheimer Rd, third floor (713-640-5416). Open Sun–Thur 11–10, Fri & Sat 11–11. Reservations recommended. $$$ +
McCullough Avenue Grill
This close-in north neighborhood has seen an explosion of restaurants in recent years; the newest one inhabits the old home of Shiraz. The boxy, single-room spot goes for solid, not fancy, dishes, including a cool and tangy gazpacho; a surprisingly tasty macaroni and cheese with a soupy truffle sauce; main courses of fish (moist, well-prepared cod on our visit), shrimp, and scallops; and fragrant lamb chops with couscous. Dignified but not formal, MAG promises to be a neighborhood favorite. Beer & wine. 4230 McCullough, at Olmos Circle (210-822-6644). Open Tue–Fri 11–2:30 & 5:30–10, Sat 5:30–10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations accepted. $$$ +