Having successfully carved up plenty of brined bovine (pastrami) at most of the local farmers markets, the duo behind Mum Foods have set up shop in the little house adjacent to the former Eastside Cafe. Although the space seems tailor-made for the smoked-meat sandwiches and fermented pickles, it’s on borrowed time, with plans to move in the spring, so go soon. There’s nothing wrong with the simplicity of the Original sandwich, its half pound of meat served up on thin slices of whole-wheat sourdough, but we prefer the Rachel, with its addition of coleslaw and Emmentaler cheese to balance the pastrami (indeed, springing for a bowl of the house-made quick pickles helps cut through the unctuousness of all the meat on offer). If you get there early enough, you can pick up smoked chicken, beef ribs, or whatever the special of the day happens to be. A riotously spicy pimento cheese sandwich will sate the non-meat-eater, and the brisket braised dandelion greens may be the best way ever to get carnivores to eat garden weeds.