The menu at his new entry from Houston’s Underbelly Hospitality focuses primarily on seafood, from apertivis to pastas, flatbreads, and main courses. The interior, with its soft lighting, blue grey and white décor, and plush blue banquettes, reflects the sea theme and creates a serene, rich setting. Even the handsome cutlery, plating, and snowy white tablecloths add to the charm. Both our starters exceeded
expectations: a beautifully crafted, curved line of lightly cured snapper with bits of fennel, olives, mini lemon wedges, all to dip into the lemon oil base; and a colorful salad of juicy tomatoes, peaches, and gremolata resting on creamy burrata to load onto crisp toast. Our main dishes proved less satisfying. In our swordfish dish, the small chunks of fish were all but lost in pasta and a spicy, tomato-based sauce.
Overall, we liked the pounded chicken with its lovely crust and egg yolk for dipping, but the thinner end of the meat was rather dry. No complaints at all with an interesting side dish, Panissa, essentially chickpea fritters, shaped in rectangular logs, and served with the tomato sauce for dipping. And we enjoyed a fine finish: a slice of chocolate tart surround by whipped cream, dots of olive oil, and
(surprise!) some thyme seasoning in the crust—brilliant! Well-trained, attentive servers and a knowledgeable sommelier.