As high-end, hyper-regional cuisine gains traction locally, Sanjh is making a name for itself. The stunning restaurant—with creamy leather booths and marble accents—opened early this year, specializing in Indian fine dining on the Lake Carolyn harbor at Las Colinas’s Water Street development. Chef Balpreet Singh Chadha’s opening menu explores the nuances of a cuisine that is often lumped into simple north and south categories but in fact encompasses innumerable regions. He offers chicken shorba soup from Delhi, Punjabi-seasoned lamb chops, and shrimp coconut curry the way it’s prepared in Mangalore. We indulged in offerings not often seen in Dallas’s Indian restaurants, such as Kerala-inspired duck breast with a tawny, nutty qorma (or korma) sauce poured tableside. As techno music and the aroma of spices and incense permeated the airy two-story dining room, we began to feel quite transported, and even hungrier when the gucchi pulao (basmati rice with morels) was unveiled. We enjoyed the dish, although the nuts and raisins listed on the menu were missing from the steaming porcelain pot (one of several minor quirks during a service where improvisation played more than a minor role). We shrugged it off with the arrival of one of India’s most famous dishes: goat biryani. Notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves subtly came through in an unusually mild version of the well-known rice and meat stew. If we order it again, we’d ask for it spicier and hope it would be served with a creamier, less runny raita.