There’s virtually no signage, accessibility is problematic, and the sound system’s rap music is rated R. But this sliver of a noodle house, tucked away facing the food market in West Dallas’s Sylvan Thirty development, is chef Teiichi Sakurai’s ramen nirvana. You’ll have to wait to get in to place your order on an iPad, and there’s no seating—it’s SRO inside and outside. Still, the thin, springy noodles, with or without the spectacular broth, are worth waiting and standing for. Tonkotsu is a pork broth featuring pork belly, ginger, bamboo shoots, scallions, and seaweed, as well as tender noodles that are eminently slurpable, even for a ramen novice. We also liked the mazemen, a delectable no-soup noodle bowl served with diced pork jowls, cucumbers, scallions, seaweed, and a poached egg to mix in.