Some chefs cook for one another, others for their customers. Dallas’s Nick Badovinus is in the latter camp. He created fans galore in 2008 with casual Neighborhood Services and did it again in 2015 with seafood splash Montlake Cut. In January, his magnum opus, Town Hearth, finally opened. A tongue-in-cheek Las Vegas vibe is evident in both the decor (acres of crystal chandeliers, a 1974 Ducati Sport motorcycle in the dining room—it can be yours for a mere $75K) and in the crowd-pleasing menu. Our humongous $95 fire-roasted bone-in prime rib was more like a roast than a steak (perhaps it was the fresh horseradish cream that did it). The best bite of the night was a fantastically tender double pork chop with sage pan jus. But the most fun was the tater tot poutine with burrata and a duck egg.
Hours: D Mon–Sat.
Last updated: April 4, 2017