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Seldom has the buzz been so great for something so small. After months of anticipation, the Sandbar has finally opened in downtown San Antonio. Does the minuscule urban fish house live up to the hype? Decidedly. Scrunch around one of the seven paper-topped tables and order a sumptuous bowl of lobster bisque or an ocean-breeze-fresh crab salad—pure jumbo lumps moistened with homemade remoulade (its kick comes from a shot of sriracha sauce) perched atop a bed of crisp romaine. Or grab a seat at the counter for a plate of bigeye tuna sashimi garnished with lightly sweetened wasabi soy sauce. Who’s floating this boat? Chef Andrew Weissman and his wife, Maureen, the same folks who own the fancy French restaurant Le Rêve, next door. They say they love the Sandbar’s informality and that they can get customers in and out in less than an hour. Small is good. PATRICIA SHARPE