When, pray tell, did it become acceptable for nice restaurants to wad up the meat in the middle of the sandwich? I mean, I understand it at an Arby’s. Arby’s has no class. But I just had an (otherwise pretty good) thin-sliced beef and slaw and cheddar “Bevo” sandwich at Cissi’s Market, here in Austin, and it was nearly three inches high in the middle and zero at the edges. How can you put your mouth around it? Who wants to? It’s gross.