Guests flock to chef Chris Williams’s museum-area abode for upscale Southern comfort food with European touches. We cannot resist the buttery hot rolls à la Great-grandmother Lucille, nor the cornbread laced with peppers. An endive-radicchio salad with crisp apple and almonds was lovely but arrived in a creamy Caesar dressing, not in the advertised citrus herb dressing, which would have made more sense. Fried Yardbird proved a winner, with half a chicken in thick crispy batter, unbeatable hoppin’ John, quick pickles, and braised collard greens. Only the pan-roasted grouper lacked verve, despite its sweet roasted cherry tomatoes and perfectly cooked kale straight from the spacious back garden. (1/14)


City: Houston


Drinks: Bar

Price: $$-$$$


Address: 5512 La Branch, Houston, TX, 77004

Hours: L & D Tue-Sat. B Sun.

Phone: 713-568-2505


Last updated: July 11, 2013