The airy, minimalist space filled slowly, and as we sipped sake at the bar, the restaurant’s sushi chefs gathered to examine some wasabi roots. They prodded, sniffed, and shaved off a few slices—then rejected the whole lot. Nothing but the freshest for this superb restaurant manned by chef Chris Kinjo. This night, our meal was all about nigiri: flounder fin, rosy sea bass, king salmon from New Zealand, hamachi belly—we could go on and on about each pristine morsel, all finished with the simplest of glazes and garnishes. We started with salmon-avocado appetizers and finished with a perfectly grilled hamachi collar. Good, decently priced sake and excellent, friendly servers complete a superlative experience.