MF Sushi feels almost spiritual at times. The sushi bar is a world apart: the chefs stand, hands clasped behind backs like so many masked priests, waiting to serve and instruct. A tapestry of majestic mountains seems to sway before you, and time can feel suspended as nigiri is savored and sake is sipped. Behind you the restaurant bustles. Try this: madai: sea bream thinly sliced and ornately plated with ponzu and yuzu kosho. Or the Wagyu beef nigiri, scored and flamed. Or the generous hamachi collar. Or the live ama ebi, a large shrimp served raw but with the head and shell (which you crunch through) deep-fried. The sake flight is a bargain, with four varieties, from dry to rose. Pro tip: The omakase service starts at seven; if you intend to sit at the bar and order à la carte, arrive early.