New and Noteworthy
Frederick’s Bistro, San Antonio and Cowboy Chow, Dallas.
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San Antonio The expanded former home of the Eclipse Cafe now holds an offshoot of Frederick’s, the reliable and highly regarded restaurant on Broadway. Less formal, less fusion-oriented, but equally accomplished, the Bistro serves classic appetizers (oysters casino with the energetic flavors of bacon, garlic, and peppers), mildly exotic main courses (savory, almost earthy duck confit with herbs and garlic; extra-moist salmon with wasabi and soy), and splendid desserts (tangy sorbets and a sugarless chocolate mousse with custard sauce). Gleaming glass and china, hardwood floors, and a black marble wall at the entrance complete a classy picture of a newcomer that bids to rival its parent in popularity. Bar. 14439 NW Military Dr, at Huebner (210-888-1500). Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2:30. Dinner Mon–Fri 5:30–10, Sat 5:30–11. Closed Sun. $$$ W+
Dallas First there’s the concept of “open-range dining,” allegedly inspired by chuck-wagon cooking, the feisty cuisine of the cattle trail. Then there’s the reality of new Dallas restaurant Cowboy Chow: honky-tonk music, mounted bison heads, dish-towel napkins, old photos of cowpokes out ridin’ the range. You get the picture. A must-try is the fried-green-tomato “lollipop”; it looks pretty much like it sounds and tastes wonderful when you have it with the accompanying three-cheese dipping sauce. The sloppy joe sliders were too sweet for our taste, but we happily crunched on the “ranch cigars”: brisket and cheddar cheese rolled in flour tortillas and flash-fried. No calories there. BYOB. 2801 Commerce (214-742-2469). Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2. Closed Sun. $ W+