One of the most popular restaurants in Marfa is a fancy Italian deli in a thirties-era service station on the main highway through town. The small main room is always crowded, but the line is a good thing because it give you time to parse the menu choices and pass the time watching the crew prepare plates and call out orders. With all the Italian meats, it sounds like an episode of the Sopranos; you can expect mortadella, salami finocchiona, and bresaola as well as smoked turkey made across the street at Convenience West barbecue. But the true stapes of Bordo are the sandwiches, prepared with homemade bread baked in an old wood-fired oven out back. Loaves are stacked in a basket at the counter, not far from a basket selling bags of homemade pasta—strozzapeti, radiatori, mafaldini. On a recent visit, we had a DiFabbio sandwich—prosciutto with gorgonzola and arugula, sweetened with saba. Our friend tired the miso cacio e pepe pasta, made with tangy pecorino cheese and French butter. We shared the patatas stronzetta sided by Calabrian aioli—warm and gooey. To wash it all down we tried a couple of Bordo’s spritzes, the prosecco cappelletti and the blood-orange mommenpop. On the off chance you have room for dessert, you could try the hot cocoa gelato (if it’s available), which is salty and sweet (and also homemade). One final tip: Monday night is pizza night, with pies that taste like they came from Italy and fabulous wedge salads. Sit in the outdoor patio and watch the guy manning  the oven.