After toiling some five years out of a smoker-trailer, pitmaster Trevor Sales moved his business into a swell permanent space (with indoor and outdoor seating ) on the Near Southside. We brought friends to tackle a giant tray laden with supple, bark-ringed brisket; sweet and chewy burnt ends; melt-in-your-mouth-tender pulled pork; addictive cheddar-jalapeño sausage; and lush, spice-rich spareribs. Adding to that the jalapeño-spiked slaw and a pair of barbacoa tacos with a creamy green chile sauce, we had enough to feed an army. Unexpected treasures included porchetta-style pork belly with citrus and fresh herbs at the core and an eye-popping spicy fried chicken sandwich that required both hands to pick up. Pro tip: skip the line snaking out the front door and head to the side door, where you can order your meal with the bartender, along with a cold beer or a watermelon margarita.