Chef Marcus Paslay—the man behind Clay Pigeon, Piattello, and Provender Hall—has turned in another smash hit. This one is an ode to Gulf coast seafood, in vintage New Orleans style, and it occupies a revamped 1920’s corner building in the Near Southside that over the years has been home to both a pharmacy and a bank. The raw oyster selection offered three kinds of Prince Edward Island jewels, our two favorites being the petite Barstool variety (crisp with a hint of sweetness) and the Northern Belle (clean and briny, with no need of adornment, though the house mignonette was superb). Our trio of Louisiana-style barbecued shrimp struck the ideal balance of barely sweet and slightly spicy, thanks to the buttery brick-red sauce that adorned them (puddles being quickly sopped up with crunchy baguette slices). Crisp and feather-light, the beer-battered redfish beignets were another worthy indulgence. Beautifully simple grilled trout came lavished with lemon and brown butter and sided by perfectly al dente green beans. A smart wine list offers selections both appealing and affordable, while classic cocktails include a Hemingway Daiquiri (rum and grapefruit juice sweetened with citrus syrup).
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Raw oysters and Louisiana barbecued shrimp evoke classic New Orleans seafood destinations.