This longtime magnet on Magnolia Avenue’s restaurant row keeps its legions of dedicated regulars delighted with affordable menus and deftly executed standards. The bone-in filet dolled up Oscar-style with crabmeat, asparagus, and hollandaise was a recent pleasure, as was the hardy, spicy cioppino, rich in lobster, shrimp, mussels, and salmon, made tangy with tomato-wine broth. Our lunchtime favorite has become pan-fried rainbow trout with a salty-tart caper-and-lemon treatment, and we’re wild about the brunch specialty of skirt steak topped with over-easy eggs, sided with corn-poblano chile hash (best enjoyed with a cranberry bellini) in our opinion. Regularly scheduled wine dinners are reliably the best five-course deals in town.