Lodged in a historic Exposition Park strip, this mezcalería has an authentic vibe that made us feel cooler than we are. Stamped tin ceilings, mottled concrete floors, and a posse of regulars lend the place the air of an institution (it’s Dallas’s first mezcalaría, but only since 2017). Papel picado and paintings of luchadores brighten the dimly lit room; bouncy Mexican music soars; and the bar is aglow with 350 agave spirits—mezcal, tequila, sotol, and others. Starving, we devoured some righteous street tacos: charry-edged beef in house-made corn tortillas with onion, lime, and cilantro and crispy beer-battered cod, dressed with tangy pickled slaw and mole crema. Chiles rellenos, stuffed with Oaxaca cheese and green chile chorizo, straddled two salsas: earthy guajillo and tangy tomatillo. Sweet, lime-kissed elotes, topped with crushed Takis (think Cheetos), made a great side. A flight of smooth mezcals and sotols sucked us into the agave spirit world, for good.