We were delighted to discover that our favorite (and tiny) downtown lunch spot has remained open for takeout, with Will Ruegg manning the front of the house and his wife, Puktra, in charge of the kitchen. Order this to go: spicy, basil-inflected Drunken Fried Rice; pad see ew, its wide rice noodles bathing in a sweet, dark soy sauce; and the Wes noodles, with tender and tangy beef and oyster mushrooms. Pro tip: A few tables have been made available for indoor dining.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.