The original Chinatown location draws chile heads for tongue tingling Szechuan peppercorn dishes from an expansive menu. Order this to go: Red chile oil pork dumplings dusted with scallions are a spicy signature, while classic wonton dumplings, served in chicken broth, are milder. Special fried rice (chicken, shrimp, pork, beef) holds up superbly to travel and reheating. Ditto the delicious Chengdu-style pot-roasted prawns with asparagus and the side of gingery stir-fried bok choy (add the fresh garlic option). Pro tip: Online ordering is a snap; call when you arrive and ask for curbside drop-off (or fetch your order inside).

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.