The Heights has another stellar restaurant in Mapojeong, a labor of love by way of Ken Bridge, who swapped out the COVID-crossed Ritual for his long-held dream of a Korean barbecue. It’s a family affair and it looks to be a happy one. Bridge and his mother were table-hopping when we entered the cheery, sun-splashed room, wandering among stations bedecked with grills and high-tech fans. Prime meats are brought to the table and cooked over an open fire, and our waiter seemed born to the task. Steaks, chops, and fish are available (along with delicious spicy fried chicken); we went with a combo of sliced brisket, Kurobuta pork belly, and marinated galbi, each grilled in succession before us. With thin slices of pickled radish and assorted banchan (fish cake, kimchi, tofu), the results proved gloriously complex. Infused soju (a distilled rice spirit) paired nicely with everything. A meal here, apart from its exemplary food, is theater—dramatic without trying to be and exciting to experience. Pro tip: All payments are processed through the Roovy app, which must be downloaded before your visit.