Tucked in an unassuming shopping center, tiny Naminohana draws discriminating sushi and hand roll aficionados for good reason: impeccably fresh seafood, including exciting daily specials; sublime sauces, applied with restraint; and the occasional use of a cooking torch. The masterful sushi making is on view at an 17-seat bar, done up in warm gray with blond wood accents. During our lunch, we swooned over many ethereal bites, including rich salmon-belly sushi, with a mild mustard-soy sauce, its skin lightly torched for a bit of char; luxurious red crab sushi brushed with a garlicky olive oil–butter and torched; pristine sashimi of madai (Japanese sea bream) served with yuzu and a wee dab of pickled wasabi. The cylindrical hand rolls—made with crispy seaweed wrappers and warm rice—are a comforting vehicle for some stellar seafood; our favorite was the crab roll, generously filled with sweet and briny red and blue crab. We’ll be back for more delights.