This global concept from internationally renowned chef Nobu Matsuhisa has finally made it to Houston, 24 years after it first opened in New York, and it’s drawing the predictable flocks of foodies to a stunning spot on the second level of the Galleria. The Japanese-Peruvian menu is as modern as the soaring space and prices, but the portions are small. Some dishes are worth it; for one, the perfectly bite-size melt-in-your-mouth smoked salmon and the bigeye nigiri with asparagus. Ditto the signature marinated yellowtail sashimi dotted with fresh jalapeño (but not too spicy). Another favorite dish was the delicately fried tempura king crab served in a pool of bracing rice wine with pickled red onions. Listen up for nightly specials (they can be terrific), bring lots of dough, and expect the noise level to ramp up as the evening progresses (we think the graceful sushi bar, slightly tucked away from the hubbub of the polished white oak dining room, is the best seat in the house).