Trust the natives to know good food. This island mainstay hearkens back some decades, which is evident in the white and black linens, curvy bar, mirrored wall, and polished cabinets holding bottles of patrons’ wine—all beneath the watchful eye of Paco himself, who seems to know most of the diners. We led off with a cocktail glass piled high with satiny snapper ceviche capped with mellow avocado. We thought our hefty crab cake, though topped with large, snowy lumps, could have gained by a bit less breading in the cake itself. But our ricotta-stuffed ravioli, resting in a sauce rich with artichoke and sun-dried tomatoes, proved perfect.