“Sabor” means “taste,” and this all-day restaurant at the storied Hotel Paso del Norte is fulfilling its identity with nicely presented dishes that fuse traditions of Mexico, the Southwest, and the South. At breakfast, that includes eggs with ham and pimento cheese biscuits. Lunch or dinner might include El Paso Street Corn, a cup of freshly grilled corn, cotija cheese, and spicy Valentina sauce (think of it as the Tabasco of Mexico). Pulled pork mac and cheese is big and bold (it’s designed to be shared) while carnitas tacos come perfectly topped with cabbage, cotija cheese, and an interesting pineapple pico de gallo spiked with jalapeño. When we got to dessert, we were delighted to find homemade beignets—hardly typical of the South or the Southwest—but a nice finale nonetheless. The pleasant dining room is brightened with Mexican pottery on display in a turquoise-hued cabinet.
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Bold flavors and interesting twists make this hotel restaurant a destination.