The Hotel Lucine is a brilliant and respectful renovation of the Treasure Island Motel on Galveston’s Seawall. The pastels are bright, the shapes are angular, and the modest two stories surround a pool, just the way they should. This restaurant fits right in with the modernistic vibe. The Fancy is not particularly fancy, and that’s its ironic point. A laid-back island feel is everywhere in the dark and casual space. Overall, the offerings are loosely French/American and excellent (with prices to match). The emphasis is, of course, seafood. Our Kampachi crudo was tart and sweet; a simple shrimp cocktail contained jumbo crustaceans served well-chilled on Boston lettuce with a creamy “white sauce”; a Caesar salad that looked uninteresting at first was saved by piping-hot “Gulf Fish” croquettes. And the entrées lived up to the promise of the starters: the red snapper wrapped in a potato crust arrived perfectly cooked, and the generous and well-brined pork chop with a Cajun maque choux (corn relish) was enough for two meals. For dessert, a delicate, fresh-from-the-oven lemon cake topped with cream and berries pushed us up to the spectacular rooftop bar to gaze happily at the Gulf on one side and the lightshow of the pool on the other. Given the many positives, it seems a bit churlish to mention a few small irritations (air vents blasted, waitstaff were stumped, items listed online were not on the menu), but we’re going to chalk it up to an early visit and trust all has been remedied by the time you visit.
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Excellent seafood in a revived Modernist motel.