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The Master — Video

A day at Snow’s BBQ.

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Every Saturday morning, before the sun has risen over Texas, a line forms in front of a small red building in Lexington. There are no guarantees about the weather conditions, or—after queuing for several hours—whether there will still be food left for patrons at the back of the line.

So what prompts people from across Texas, the United States, and, yes, even the world, to spend a Saturday morning in the Texas tiny town? Their faith in the quality of Snow’s BBQ.

Those toward the back of the line can watch Snow’s pitmaster, 82-year-old Tootsie Tomanetz, as she runs the pits alongside her boss, Snow’s owner, Kerry Bexley. As they work, mountains of steaming smoked meats are carted inside. Slowly, the line snaking out of the building inches forward as more people disappear through the portal to barbecue nirvana. Moments later, customers emerge from the back door with a tray full of barbecue and, more often than not, a smile.

Snow’s is only open on Saturdays, and then only until the meat is gone. The people who come are taking a leap of faith, risking the possibility of a wasted morning and an empty stomach. But, without fail, barbecue lovers show up. It’s a testament to Bexley’s perseverance as a business owner, the eminence of Texas barbecue, and—perhaps most of all—to Tootsie. They’ve put their faith in the master.

Video shot and edited by Amber Genuske.

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  • Dennis Hanovich

    Beautiful piece. I’ve never been to Snow’s but I can see why it’s #1 on the Texas Monthly list. God bless you, Tootsie.

  • Walt Longmire

    I am from Central Illinois, but I spent ten years in West Texas. I am coming your way, Snow’s!

  • Derrick Kinney

    Great write-up, greatly deserved! I’ve been there and frequented her set-up at TMBBQ Festival the past couple of years! I look forward to visiting Snow’s early one Saturday very soon! Bottom line, you can taste the LOVE!

  • Jana Mae

    My daughter in-law is from Lexington and these are her people. Tootsie is not a star, she is a Texas legend.

  • Walt Longmire

    Wonderful tribute to Tootsie and Snow’s. I will make it to Lexington before she passes – I will! I will!!

  • Jana Mae

    Love Kerry’s t-shirt!