East Side King & Jarro Cafe
Thu May 24, 2012 3:13 pm

Yesterday, we introduced you to John T. Edge’s newest book, The Truck Food Cookbook. The culinary author traveled across the country to dine at some of the nation’s most beloved mobile food establishments, including East Side King of Austin and Jarro Cafe in Houston, to compile 294 pages of deliciousness. Here, the author shares two recipes from The Truck Food Cookbook: East Side King’s Fried Brussels Sprouts and Jarro Cafe’s Suadero Tacos.

Recipes: Excerpted from The Truck Food Cookbook. Copyright 2012 John T. Edge. Reprinted with permission from Workman Publishing.

Fried Brussels Sprouts (East Side King)

Not much street food is vegetable based (unless you count tofu dogs, which I don’t). Part of the problem is that it’s difficult to eat a bowl of greens while walking. The answer is brussels sprouts, which, as showcased in this recipe from the East Side King boys, eat like popcorn shaken from a sack.

Serves 4 to 6
1 cup sweet chili sauce, preferably Mae Ploy brand
1 cup distilled white vinegar
1 clove garlic, minced
4 Thai chiles, minced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound brussels sprouts, quartered
1/2 cup thinly sliced red cabbage
1/2 cup thinly sliced green cabbage
1/4 cup alfalfa sprouts
1/4 cup thinly sliced onion
1 large jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced
Salt
1/8 cup torn fresh mint leaves
1/8 cup torn fresh cilantro leaves
1/8 cup torn fresh basil leaves

”Fried

1. Place the chili sauce, vinegar, garlic, and Thai chiles in a small mixing bowl. Mix well and set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the brussels sprouts and cook them until the cores of the sprouts are approaching golden brown and the edges are caramelized, about 1 1/2 minutes.

3. Toss the red and green cabbage, alfalfa sprouts, onion, and jalapeño in a large mixing bowl. Add the brussels sprouts and the chili sauce mixture. Season with salt to taste and garnish with the mint, cilantro, and basil.

Suadero Tacos (Jarro Cafe)

Suadero is probably a slim cut from the beef brisket. Unless it’s flank steak. I’ve studied the Spanish language butcher charts and I’m still not sure. What I am sure of is that at Jarro Cafe suadero reaches its potential by way of a deep citrus marinade. I suggest using flank steak for this recipe inspired by Jarro because brisket is a tough cut—even if you start off with thin slices.

Makes 12 small tacos
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds beef flank steak, sliced 1/4-inch thick
12 small (4 to 6 inches each) corn tortillas, store-bought or homemade (page 87)
1/2 cup chopped white onion
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Serrano-Cilantro Salsa (recipe follows), or salsa of your choice
Lime wedges, for serving

”Suadero

1. Place the lemon juice, oregano, garlic, 1/4 cup of the oil, and the salt and pepper in a mixing bowl and whisk to combine well. Pour the marinade into a large resealable plastic bag, add the beef, and massage the marinade into the meat. Press any air out of the bag and seal it, then let the beef marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight. Turn the bag occasionally to distribute the marinade evenly over the meat.

2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Remove the beef from the marinade and discard the marinade. Pat dry with paper towels. Add the beef to the skillet and sear it on both sides. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the beef until it is no longer pink, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the beef to a cutting board and let it rest for about 10 minutes, then chop it.

3. Heat another skillet over medium heat and warm the tortillas one at a time in the skillet until pliable, about 30 seconds on each side. As you work, wrap the tortillas in a clean kitchen towel to keep them warm.

4. To assemble the tacos, put equal amounts of beef on each tortilla and top it with some chopped onion and cilantro. Serve the tacos with the salsa and lime wedges.

Serrano-Cilantro Salsa
Makes about 1 cup

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
10 serrano peppers, stemmed and seeded
1/2 cup diced onion
3 cloves garlic minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the serrano peppers, onion, and garlic and cook until the peppers begin to brown and blister, about 10 minutes. Let the pepper mixture cool, then transfer it to a blender. Add the cilantro, vinegar, salt, cumin, and 3/4 cup of water and puree until smooth. The salsa can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 1 week.

More Texas Monthly

Loading, please wait...

Most Read

  • Viewed
  • Past:
  • 1 week