Cheese Enchiladas

Cheese Enchiladas
Photograph by Jody Horton

The Dish

They are, simply put, an addiction. First, there’s the frequency with which we consume them, which, if we’re honest, is at least weekly. Then there’s their powerful nostalgia—of long Saturdays cooking with your welita, of Sunday lunches out with family, of Christmas Eve dinners. And finally there’s their curative power, which salves everything from the head-splitting hangover to the paralyzing homesickness that strikes when we leave the state. Ah, enchiladas. Verdes, rojas, suizas, banderas, con mole, rolled, folded, stacked and topped with a fried egg—they are too varied to count. But as anyone who grew up here knows, the truly habit-forming kind, the ones you have to have after a soul-sucking week, are the classic Tex-Mex cheese

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