The Rustic

If ever a name described a place, it’s this huge indoor-outdoor music venue, with its yards of reclaimed wood and American flag composed of beer cans. The food, like beer-battered cactus fritters with red jalapeño ketchup, is better than it has to be. Burgers and an array of wood-grilled meats round out the menu. The white hominy studded with melted cheddar and smoked ham is almost a meal in itself. (3/14)

 

Just Add Water (and Chef)

So you want to start a restaurant. No problem—you’ll just need to secure investors, find a space, manage the renovations, hire a staff, run the gauntlet of city permits, and somehow find the time to, you know, cook. But if you happen to live in Dallas, there’s a better way. Since 2012, culinary up-and-comers have been routing their dreams through Trinity Groves, a buzzing hundred-acre complex at the western end of the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge.

Evolution of a Dish

In the short time that it’s been open, Qui has earned a reputation for highly original dishes. Much of that has to do with the chef’s wide-ranging imagination and artistic process. Rabbit Seven Ways, a riff on the traditional Vietnamese dish Beef Seven Ways, was on the opening menu and became a signature item. Recently, the sprawling dish underwent a makeover, becoming smaller and more delicate. We asked Paul Qui to walk us through the steps his creations take, from idea to plate.

Revival of the Fattest

A feast fortwo had just been laid in front of Morgan Weber and me: a link of boudin, smoked brisket from an Augustus Ranch steer, a lamb-pastrami sandwich on a pretzel bun, and, the star of any show at Revival Market, a gorgeous charcuterie platter full of house-cured prosciutto, coppa, lardo, and salami. Weber, who opened this cozy grocery store and meat market on Houston’s Heights Boulevard back in 2011 with chef Ryan Pera, had already had lunch. So had I.

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