Michelin-starred chef Akira Back has extended his global empire to the Colony, 28 miles north of Dallas. It’s a bit of a departure from his usual glitzy locales (Paris, Dubai, Beverly Hills), but the sleek interior is no less upscale. The modern Japanese menu draws on his Korean roots, bringing a little fusion flair to items such as the stellar Jeju Domi: Korean snapper sashimi with marinated smelt roe and red sorrel. Steaks include a filet tobanyaki (a style of cooking in which the tender Angus beef is roasted on a ceramic dish) and a ten-ounce Wagyu ribeye with wasabi butter. Seafood dishes include grilled octopus with potato “foam” and salsa verde and kimchi-topped scallops on the half shell (if the special of Japanese sea bream in beurre blanc is on the menu, order it). If not for the commercial center setting, which affords glimpses of highway from the patio, this restaurant could rate higher.