As we watched multiple sushi rolls saturated in eel sauce and spicy mayo being delivered to nearby tables at Anchor Sushi Bar’s first location in Preston Hollow, it quickly became apparent that Vandelay Hospitality Group’s first sushi concept is designed not for purists but for those who prefer the taste of raw fish punched up—AKA disguised—with bright, strong flavors. Accordingly, we began our dinner—in the nautical-themed, polished-wood dining room—with the highly popular hamachi crispy rice appetizer (there were three pieces, each a generous two-biter). The fish—which came daubed with vinaigrette mixed with yuzu kosho—was actually quite enjoyable. We followed that with an order of the popular wasabi veggie fried rice. It was hard not to notice that the rice (topped with a delicate fried shiso leaf) contained unmixed globs of wasabi mayo at the bottom of the bowl, but it was so flavor-packed, thanks to pickled ginger, that we mixed everything in and just enjoyed it. Nearly making up for all previous gripes was the buttery, quick-seared sea bass, which arrived in a puddle of floral, caramelly miso sauce that had been fermented together with tart, yummy ume plums.