Tavel Bristol-Joseph, a Food & Wine best new chef 2020, fills a niche in Austin’s ever-expanding culinary scene with Canje, named for the national bird of his native Guyana. Conjuring a festive beach-side feel are vivid wallpaper and raffia-draped fixtures, along with a menu rich in ingredients like silky coconut, tart-sweet pineapple, and piquant chiles. Golden-fried plantains were an addictive start to a meal that includ- ed a sizable platter of copper-hued, crispy-skinned jerk chicken and meaty poached grouper bathed in a subtle coconut cream with tiny, barely cooked cherry tomatoes.