At the Monticello neighborhood’s edge, this cool enclave of brick and wood feels like home every time we return. Chef Bria Downey turns our heads anew with fresh takes on otherwise trendy dishes, like the charred octopus, tender pieces served with marble potatoes and crispy salami bits in a watercress-frisée salad brightened with pickled red onion, a flaming-orange piquillo sauce, and a smooth charred-onion vinaigrette. Though meant as a side, the grilled squash tossed in a rustic pesto deserves its own spotlight (order it as an appetizer). Pan-seared scallops, crispy at the edges and satiny within, are never better than over a hash of smoky bacon and mixed sweet peppers laced with corn puree flecked with cool cilantro snips. A welcome surprise is the return of CP’s beloved burger, its juicy, nubby texture lavished with garlic aioli and aged cheddar, delivered with a side of perfectly crisp fries.
City: Fort Worth