The glam, spacious interior is nearly out-glitzed by the spacious, open-to-the-sky patio, which offers both table seating and sofas piled with cushions. We opted for the great outdoors and were rewarded with a beautifully plated meal by chefs David Denis and Lionel Debon, expertly served. Highlights? Wild mushroom velouté (a mix of chanterelle, oyster, and trumpet mushrooms in a rich, deeply flavorful broth). Next came a huge tomato stuffed with creamy burrata and sided by tiny tomatoes and dabs of balsamic. Seared scallops arrived under a cloche, dramatically filled with smoke, which was whisked away to reveal the seafood sided by a vivid green pea puree and topped with a rich chorizo broth. A perfectly pink center-cut beef tenderloin came with Selim pepper jus, sided by large squares of potatoes sporting brown butter Romanesco. We “shared”—but really fork-fought over—vanilla cheesecake with layers of puff pastry and lemon-ginger drops. If you are offered a brandy alexander, say yes. The only disappointment? A flat glass of bubbly—that’s all.
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Serious glamour and a French menu, expertly prepared.