Recently reopened as the Culpepper Cattle Company, the third incarnation of the former Culpepper Steakhouse, which opened in 1982, has retained plenty of nostalgic touches from its former lives, including  the biplane embedded in the river rock walls and a slew of taxidermied wildlife. Taken over by UNCO hospitality group, which includes HG Sply Co. and Leela’s Wine Bar, this Rockwall staple has kept the crowd-pleasing ambience while adding some updates. Tweaks to the menu by consulting chef Danyele McPherson include Tex-Mex touches, and the four (yes, four) bars feature cocktails made with quality tequila. Our patio brunch, with a soundtrack of country music, water fountain trickles, and the hum of highway traffic, began with warm flour tortillas and salted butter. We restrained ourselves from gobbling them all while waiting for a house salad that came with extra-large, buttery croutons dotted with sesame seeds and a pleasantly sour, milky blue cheese dressing. When the chicken Laredo came, we fretted at the sight of a cheese-on-cheese chicken breast. But the blanket of gooey spinach dip, jack cheese, pico de gallo, and diced poblano peppers over a juicy, wood-grilled breast was as tasty as any chicken could hope to be. We cut it up and wrapped it in the remaining flour tortillas for an exceedingly delicious lunch.