For Fond, their first restaurant, chef-owners Jennie Kelley and Brandon Moore have developed a toothsome menu of Detroit-style pizzas and shared plates designed to complement an all-natural wine list. Typically, Dallas rides in the caboose in Texas when it comes to offering more cerebral wines by smaller producers, so those seeking out yeastier, arguably more interesting choices with fewer additives will be welcome the cozy, brick-walled restaurant on the first floor of Santander Tower. As we enjoyed a playlist that ranged from Leonard Cohen to nineties hip-hop, we decided to start “aperitivo hour” with morsels of fried olives stuffed with Calabrian sausages and accompanied by herby garlic aioli, a nice companion to our glass of orange wine from New Zealand. The seasonal burrata that day was served with prosciutto, roasted butternut squash, and shiitakes, creating an earthy, nutty, and creamy blend, with a scattering of breadcrumbs for added texture. Kelley and Moore excel in sauces like the basil-rich Motor City red sauce that came generously spooned over two hefty meatballs; another fine example was their romesco aioli, which harmonized perfectly with our favorite savory dish, the roasted fingerling potatoes. The evening came to a fitting crescendo with a swirl of boysenberry and coconut soft-serve ice cream topped with a drizzle of olive oil and Maldon salt flakes. (In case you’re wondering about the name, “fond” refers to the savory caramelized bits left in a saucepan after food is cooked.)