After a four-year closure, Mirador has reopened its posh perch atop Forty-Five Ten, an upscale downtown store. The renovated dining room shines with understated elegance: stunning floor-to-ceiling-windows and a wraparound terrace serve as a backdrop for an impressive art collection, towering plants, and salmon-colored banquettes. It feels nice to treat yourself to a long lunch here, starting perhaps with a cocktail or a glass of bubbly. The menu’s been refreshed too; besides salads, hearty main dishes, and sandwiches, they’ve added a swanky modern tea on Saturdays. Our lunch began with Crispy Chicken Bites, dusted in cornmeal and fried to perfection, served with a smoky lime aioli (the dish was so generously sized it could have served three or even four light eaters). Pappardelle with oxtail ragù featured house-made pasta ribbons swathed in a savory beef stew brightened with preserved orange sofrito (garnishes of chopped hazelnuts and little yellow blossoms elevated the otherwise rustic dish). On the lighter side, the shrimp po’boy turned out to be a banh mi–style sandwich enlivened with cilantro, pickled vegetables, and jalapeño aioli; the accompanying tomato soup was nicely accented with a touch of fresh tarragon, Parmesan cream, and fried croutons. For dessert, the veteran pastry chef impressed us with a Texas grapefruit and pretzel tart—a dense pretzel-crumb shell cradling luscious citrus curd under a cap of pink grapefruit gelée.