Tucked discreetly into the corner of a vintage downtown building, Partenope, named for the “maiden-voiced” Greek siren, has a youthful, sophisticated vibe. Chef-owner Dino Santonicola was a pizzaiolo at Cane Rosso, so it’s no surprise that his thin-crust pizzas, nearly a dozen varieties baked in an authentic Neapolitan oven, are a major draw. But don’t miss the marvelous seasonal pasta dishes, like the made-to-order timballetto di melanzane: eggplant layered with beef, bucatini, mozzarella, and sausage. Branzino, served with fingerling potatoes and cherry tomatoes in a luscious beurre blanc sauce, is delicately oven-roasted to perfection. Half a dozen small antipasti could create a tapas-style meal. While wines are strictly Italian, many beers are local, and Negroni cocktails are a house specialty. Tiramisu, made from the chef’s family recipe, gives a feather-light finish to a hearty meal.
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Neapolitan pizza and seasonal delights.