After an excruciating wait, Cowtown’s favorite burger joint (which closed its flagship Currie Street location in 2020) is back, in much larger digs, in West Fort Worth. The front dining room is an homage to the original shop, with lots of gold vinyl booths and hunting trophies. A large bar, opening onto an indoor-outdoor patio, adds to the appeal (and noise level). Delectable as ever is the Serrano, a burger layered with grilled onions and the namesake chiles, Oaxaca cheese, and lime-laced mayo. So is the massive traditional chicken-fried steak with flaky crust, near-perfect cream gravy, and stellar fries. After your meal, turn your attention to the banana pudding, which is large enough for four to share.